Is Oud Sustainable? Agarwood & CITES
Real demand for oud has grown faster than a slow-maturing tree ever can. That tension is exactly why sustainability matters here more than in most of perfumery.
Is oud endangered?
Several wild Aquilaria species have faced real pressure from over-harvesting, driven by rising global demand for a naturally scarce material. Because of this, wild agarwood-producing Aquilaria species are listed under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species), which restricts and regulates their international trade to protect wild populations.
What CITES actually does
A CITES listing doesn’t ban oud — it requires that international trade in wild-sourced agarwood be permitted, documented and traceable, so that legitimate, sustainable trade can continue without driving wild populations toward collapse. Reputable producers and sellers work within this framework, and can typically speak to where their material came from.
The rise of plantation-grown oud
The most significant shift in the industry has been the growth of managed Aquilaria plantations, where trees are deliberately grown and then inoculated with the resin-triggering fungus under controlled conditions, rather than harvested from the wild. This reduces pressure on wild forests considerably, and quality has improved a great deal as techniques have matured over the past couple of decades — though many purists still feel wild-origin oud carries a different depth.
Where synthetic oud fits in
Synthetic oud accords, covered in full in our natural-versus-synthetic guide, remove pressure on Aquilaria trees entirely, since no wood is involved at all. For fragrances that want oud’s character without any impact on the source, this is currently the most straightforwardly sustainable route.
What to look for as a buyer
- Sellers who can tell you whether oud is plantation-grown, wild-sourced, or synthetic.
- Transparency about origin and, where relevant, CITES compliance for natural material.
- A willingness to talk about sourcing honestly, rather than vague “authentic Arabian oud” claims with no detail behind them.
Where we stand
We take sourcing seriously precisely because oud means something real to us, not because it’s good marketing. Where we use natural oud, we work with reputable suppliers; where we build oud-forward blends, synthetic materials do genuine, sustainable work alongside natural ones. We’d rather be straightforward about that than make claims we can’t stand behind.
Frequently asked questions
Is buying oud unethical?
Not inherently — plantation-grown natural oud and synthetic oud accords are both sustainable routes to enjoying oud responsibly. The concern is specifically around illegally harvested wild agarwood.
Is all agarwood protected by CITES?
Wild Aquilaria species that produce agarwood are broadly covered, which is why documentation and traceability matter for wild-sourced material specifically; plantation-grown and synthetic oud sit outside that same pressure.
Explore our responsibly sourced oud collection, from pure oil to oud-forward blends.














